21st Stop - Johannesburg, Part 2

Remember back in episode 12 (Brussels) how my cell phone got stolen? Well, I eventually replaced it and feel compelled to tell you about my new phone. Why? Because it’s finally been sunny, after weeks of clouds during the rainy season in Cameroon, and I am only now getting a chance to use the solar panel on the back that charges the phone. Now don’t be jealous; if you’ve already made the transition to a smartphone, as I had several years ago, this is like trading down from a Harley to a kiddie bike with training wheels. No GPS, no synchronization with iCal or Outlook, no flash for the camera... basically a useless phone (I can still make and receive calls) with a solar panel.

Rhodesian Ridgeback, Shakira

Back to the here and now. Adrian dropped me off at Carol and Mike’s place on Wednesday night; it turns out that they live qute close to one another! Carol and Mike have a lovely home in Jo’burg North that Mike actually built. I was greeted by Carol and one of their Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs. These are beautiful dogs that were bred in Zimbabwe to hunt lions. I don’t think they do much lion hunting these days but make for excellent guard dogs. In fact, after meeting Mike, the first thing he told me was that there was one rule in the house and that was not to go outside whenever Brutus, the male, was not locked up. Too dangerous.

On Thursday, I went with Carol and her dad John to the Lion and Rhino Reserve for an African safari. First time I have ever seen a rhino, springbok, African buffalo, cheetah and more. Did you know that the cheetah has characteristics of both canine and feline and people disagree as to its classification? Thanks Carol and John for a beautiful day in the Land Cruiser!

Vanessa, Carol’s daughter, and Robert, Vanessa’s boyfriend, joined us for a fish and chicken feast later that night. We had a few cocktails and Mike shared some amazing stories about gold mining in Zimbabwe, copper mining in the Democratic Republic of Congo and what it is like being an entrepreneur in South Africa. I hope that one day the Zimbabwe National Bank gives you back that 6 kg of gold they’ve been holding onto! I also learned what the expression “it’s cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey” means. Take your best guess by commenting on this post (without googling it); I’ll give you the explanation afterwards!

Tauren, Carol’s niece, lives upstairs and she invited me out for a drink with one of her friends. We had a nice evening out, thanks again Tauren!

On Friday, I packed up my things and went East to another host family. I had a lovely time with Carol, Mike and everyone else. Looking forward to seeing Robert and Vanessa in France when they go on their world tour next year! Thanks again for hosting me and for two more bednets to fight against malaria. Oh and I almost forgot, if you're in the market for a beautiful home in Jo'burg, Carol and Mike are selling theirs!

Next stop: Jo’burg East!

21st Stop - Johannesburg, Part 1

I made it into Jo’burg bright and early Saturday morning and as I stepped off the plane, I suddenly realized it was winter! Brrr... The first thing I did when I got my suitcase was take out my jacket. When I opened it, I noticed that it had been “inspected” by airport staff or customs officials in Cameroon or South Africa. Actually, a better term would be “pilfered”. When I was about 10 years old, I made my first foreign currency purchase. I went out to the airport in Minneapolis and bought a $5 Australian bill. I’ve held onto it all this time, knowing that one day I’d make it there and be able to use it. Looks like some thief will be using it before me. He or she also made away with 40 Thai Baht (about $1). Lesson for us all: don’t put cash in your checked luggage.

After filing a complaint and filling out a police report, I was on the new high speed Gautrain heading to Sandton, Jo’burg’s sister city. From there, I got on the bus and went up to the Monte Casino to meet Adrian. Interestingly, there were only two other people on the bus. They recently put in place a public bus system and it hasn’t quite taken off yet among the locals. Maybe the fierce resistance from the taxi association and random drive-by shootings are scaring off potential riders.

Jo’burg was going to be the first city where I would reach out to complete strangers and ask them to host me. How? Using a website called www.CouchSurfing.org. I had contacted some people while I was in Morocco and at least 4 people had offered to host me during the week. First stop, Adrian and Louise’s place in Jo’burg North.

Adrian picked me up and brought me to their house. My room wasn’t ready though because they had a young German couple staying with them (couchsurfers as well!) who were leaving in an hour or so to drive up to Mozambique. After sending off the Germans, I went out for a relaxing walk in the park with Siobhan, Adrian’s daughter, Louise, and Crackle, their dog. Louise told me all about her and Adrian’s volunteer work as police reservists. I was very impressed and felt like I couldn’t have ended up with a safer family! I commend you both for your active involvement in your community.

That night, my hosts took me along to one of their friends’ house party. Nice evening with Brian and Randall, two philosophy professors from Canada, and Luana, a South African pilatis instructor. Thanks everyone for such a warm welcome on my first day!

Next day, another house party at GG and Sue’s house to celebrate Sue’s birthday party. What a great opportunity to meet a lot of interesting people! Adrian shared some stories about his trip to North Korea to purchase pottery. I loved learning that they have an entire movie set that replicates all the major cities around the world for TV news broadcasts. Had a chance to talk a little with Mike, a former world champion in no holds barred cage fighting and see some pictures from one of GG’s last motorcycle trips through Namibia. Very impressive. Finished up chatting with one of the local city councilors, Ralph, who invited me to their caucus the next day. Unfortunately, I couldn’t come as I wasn’t a party member :-(

Three’s a charm, Monday night, another birthday party, this time to celebrate Luana’s 50th. We had a nice dinner at an Italian restaurant and then went back to her place to drop off the dishwashing machine that her friends’ had all chipped in to buy her. Talked with Scruff who just started a mushroom growing business—not the psychedelic kind—and Marshall, one of Jo’burg’s captains of industry. Thanks Marshall for sharing some tunes from the new Beck album!

All of these parties gave me the chance to tell so many people about the bednets project; almost everyone asked me if I knew Kingsley Holgate. Hadn’t heard of him before I got to South Africa, but now I know. Want to find out more? Check out his site and bravo Kingsley for your action!

The next days were a little quieter. I spent most of the time working, and we went out to eat for local fare on Tuesday night. A nice local joint called where you can write on the walls (see really bad res photo to the left)! In a matter of days I had tried most of the country’s specialties: biltong, which I had mistakenly understood as bull tongue, or South African beef jerky; bunny chow, a minced meat stuffed half-loaf of white bread, and milk tart, a custard tart with cinnamon. Yummy!

Adrian and Louise were very kind and offered to let me stay the rest of the week. I must admit I was tempted because I was having such a wonderful time in their company. Some other people though had also been kind enough to offer to host me and were very excited to know that they’d be helping save lives that I regretfully had to decline the offer and move on. Thanks again Adrian, Louise, and Siobhan for a great experience in Jo’burg. That’s four more bednets to fight against malaria. I look forward to taking you up on the invitation to Mozambique and welcoming you in Nice one day!

Next stop: Jo'burg North chez Carol and Mike!